Ankara Bomber Round 2: McCalls 7100

I mentioned in Fall/Winter To Sew List post that I had a few bomber jackets planned. First up was the matching Ankara set I sewed up for me and Miss Socialite. The lesson I learned from that attempt was do NOT use fusible interfacing (at least not without adjusting the sizing).

m7100_a

Next up! This Ankara version for my sister. I had decided to use McCalls 7100 for hers since I was trying to compare it to New Look 6226 that I used for mine. My sister shopped my stash and selected this blue circular print Ankara fabric from AKN Fabrics that I had leftover from another project.  Thankfully, even though I had cut the fabric for hers when I cut ours, I had not yet interfaced it.

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I really like this pattern, it’s athletic in style but feminine in fit.  The raglan sleeves feature a shoulder dart that reduces bulk and the two piece front bodice allows a closer fit. I also like that the two piece front allows for several color blocking options (see View C). At my sister’s request I did not colorblock her jacket, though I thought black ponte or faux leather sleeves would have been nice.

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Possible sleeve options. clockwise from top left; Quilted Faux Leather, Yaya Han Patterned Pleather,  Quilted Diamon Black Knit, Yaya Han Low Stretch Pleather all from Joann Fabrics

The instructions were straight forward. I sewed View A minus the welts at the pockets. I used Sew Classic Knit Aspen Rib 2×2 ribbing from Joann for the collar, sleeve band and waist band. This ribbing works well as its thick enough for a cuff, they had another ribbing that was way to flimsy. I only wish they carried more collars I only saw black and white.

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As I said in the previous post I like my jackets lined, especially a woven jacket for wearability and in this case warmth. I had decent size remnant of a white ponte that I used for the lining. For the lining I cut and sewed all the main pieces as I had for the main fabric (omitting the pocket). Then I attached the lining using the method Kelly utilizes her Ollie Jacket pattern instructions. She has a free version for size 2T if you want to read that method. Essentially it’s a bagged lining that requires very little hand sewing (which I don’t love).

The jacket turned great and my picky sister loved it! Or at least that’s what she said…she’s yet to wear it. **insert side eye** LOL She’s blaming this unusually warm winter (here in the southeast). Unfortunately she refuses to take pictures in general and definitely not a picture that I would publish on the blog or social media, so these dress form photos will have to do.

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left: M7100 right: NL6226

I can say now after sewing both M7100 and NL6226 that I like both jackets. The new look version is more of a baseball jacket. I think it lends itself more to dressier fabrics like satin or sequins because of the casings in lieu of ribbing and the added details of a back yoke and back pleat. My main drawback was the side seam pockets on a waist length jacket, they are almost unusable. The McCalls pattern is more of a traditional bomber jacket with raglan sleeve and ribbed cuffs. I think the options are really limitless with this pattern because of the color blocking and pocket options.

Stay tuned for my fourth bomber jacket turned out. Hint this one is finally for me and it fits!

Pattern: McCalls 7100

Pattern Description: Semi-fitted, unlined jackets have collar, side-front seams, bands, side-front pockets, exposed front zipper contrast panels and sleeves with shoulder dart. A, B, C: Welt pockets. D: Kangaroo pocket.

Sizing: XS-M, L-XXL (I sewed a medium for my sister)

Difficulty: 2/easy

Fabric Used: Green circular Ankara print from AKN Fabrics

Does it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn’t follow them but they were straight forward.

Likes: Raglan sleeve, color blocking options, slimmer fit

Dislikes: none

Pattern alterations or any design changes made: I added a lining.

Would I sew it again? Yes, because I want one for myself.

Would I recommend it to others? Yes!

Conclusion: Great bomber pattern

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2 Comments Add yours

  1. I like both. I love your blue print fabric though. That’s the winner for me!

    Liked by 1 person

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